Years ago, Sephora was a luxury cosmetics store populated by beauty enthusiasts in pursuit of the latest skincare and makeup lines. Now, among the sea of adults are swarms of preteens eager to fill their bedrooms with colorful serums and creams. Coerced by their favorite influencers, Sephora kids can be found lurking near your favorite cosmetic brand. However, encased in these sought-after, vibrant bottles are harsh ingredients like glycolic acid, retinol and vitamin C.

 Beauty company Drunk Elephant is infamous for being a Sephora kid’s latest obsession. Their $72 Protini Polypeptide cream and its “iconic” pump packaging can be found in nearly every Sephora wishlist. It contains glycolic acid, a strong, odorless solid made to reduce the appearance of fine lines by working as a chemical exfoliant on the skin’s top layer, the epidermis. Obviously, every 12-year-old requires this cream; glycolic acid is essential to blurring their nonexistent wrinkles. Consumers often forget the dangers of glycolic acid, including its ability to burn and irritate the skin.

 But this cream is just one product in their 10-step skincare routines. Many Sephora kids will also whip out their A-Passioni Retinol cream (yes, that’s the actual name). Retinol, also known as vitamin A, fights acne-causing bacteria and soothes skin inflammation by unclogging pores and stimulating collagen production. Product developers intentionally include retinol to create potent serums that can fight stubborn acne. Of course, retinol is also a necessity for kids with clear skin. And isn’t the hot pink packaging just irresistible? Using retinol cream religiously is part of the Sephora kid handbook. Still, an overuse of retinol can put their skin at risk of purging: a temporary increase in acne as clogged pores develop.

 Even their C-Firma Fresh Day Serum, packed with vitamin C, worms its way into a Sephora kid’s vanity. Apparently, Drunk Elephant’s “50+” age recommendation is just a suggestion. While vitamin C can lighten hyperpigmentation to create a radiant complexion, it can also compromise the skin’s natural barrier by disrupting pH levels. The result? Dry and flaky skin.

 And, get this: Sephora kids will mix these products together. They call it the “skincare smoothie.” Invented by these tweens, who are clearly experts in the field, the skincare smoothie aims to address all the skin’s problems with a single application. First, take your polypeptide cream. Its pump will be the canvas for your retinol cream and vitamin C serum. Combine them all with your unwashed finger until a homogeneous mixture is achieved. Apply it all over your face and … Voila! A perfectly harsh, haphazard concoction made to destroy your skin. Not only do skincare smoothies reduce the efficiency of each product, but they also create unpredictability in pH and chemical stability.

 So, why do kids feel the need to ruin their supple skin with harsh creams and serums? Maybe it’s the joy of seeing a rainbow of bottles line their bedroom wall, the euphoric rush of mixing their daily skincare smoothie or finally hunting down a sold-out, overpriced moisturizer. Whatever the reason, this social media trend will continue to create unwelcome surprises on developing skin.